Development by DDSHOPAPPS

  • Brakes

  • Brake Fluid

    Due to the extreme operating temperatures of a high-performance brake system, standard off-the-shelf brake fluids are not recommended. Of critical importance in determining a fluids ability to handle high temperature applications is the Dry Boiling Point and compressibility.

    The Dry Boiling Point is the temperature at which a brake fluid will boil in its virgin non-contaminated state. The highest temperature Dry Boiling Point available in a DOT 3 fluid is 572 degrees F.

    The Wet Boiling Point is the temperature a brake fluid will boil after it has been fully saturated with moisture. The DOT 3 requirement for wet boiling point is a minimum temperature of 284 degrees F.

    There are many ways for moisture to enter your brake system. Condensation from regular use, washing the vehicle and humidity are the most common, with little hope of prevention. Glycol based DOT 3 & 4 fluids are hygroscopic; they absorb brake system moisture, and over time the boiling point is gradually reduced.

    Wilwood does not recommend using DOT 5 fluid in any racing applications. DOT 5 fluid is not hygroscopic, so as moisture enters the system, it is not absorbed by the fluid, and results in beads of moisture moving through the brake line, collecting in the calipers. It is not uncommon to have caliper temperatures exceed 200 degrees F, and at 212 degrees F, this collected moisture will boil causing vapor lock and system failure. Additionally, DOT 5 fluid is highly compressible due to aeration and foaming under normal braking conditions, providing a spongy brake feel.

    Whenever you add fresh fluid to your existing system (never mix fluids of different DOT classifications), it immediately becomes contaminated, lowering the boiling point of the new fluid. For maximum performance, start with the highest Dry Boiling Point available (try Wilwood Hi-Temp 570 Racing Brake Fluid), flush the system completely, and flush it regularly, especially after severe temperatures have been experienced.

  • Brake Pad Bedding Steps

    Begin with a series of light decelerations to gradually build some heat in the brakes. Use an on-and-off the pedal technique by applying the brakes for 3-5 seconds, and then allow them to fully release for a period roughly twice as long as the deceleration cycle. If you use a 5 count during the deceleration interval, use a 10 count during the release to allow the heat to sink into the pads & rotors.

    After several cycles of light stops to begin warming the brakes, proceed with a series of medium to firm deceleration stops to continue raising the temperature level in the brakes.

    Finish the bedding cycle with a series of 8-10 hard decelerations from 55-65 MPH down to 25 MPH while allowing a proportionate release and heat-sinking interval between each stop. The pads should now be providing positive and consistent response.

    If any amount of brake fade is observed during the bed-in cycle, immediately begin the cool down cycle.

    Drive at a moderate cruising speed, with the least amount of brake contact possible, until most of the heat has dissipated from the brakes. Avoid sitting stopped with the brake pedal depressed to hold the car in place during this time. Park the vehicle and allow the brakes to cool to ambient air temperature.

  • How do I measure the pedal ratio and determine what pedal ratio is best suited for my application?

    Pedal Ratio defines the mechanical leverage component of the overall brake system leverage, and the driver's ability to apply load to the master cylinder where that force is then converted into hydraulic pressure. Pedal ratio is calculated by measuring the straight line distance from the center point of the pedal pivot to the middle of the foot pad (measurement A) and then dividing that number by the distance from the center point of the pedal pivot to the center point of the pushrod attachment location (measurement B).

    With a 5:1 pedal ratio, any amount of force applied to the pedal is multiplied by 5 times to apply load to the master cylinder pushrod. Likewise, any amount of stroke at the master cylinder would then be multiplied by 5 times to determine pedal travel. If 100 pounds of force is applied to a pedal with a 5:1 ratio, 500 pounds of force would be applied to the master cylinder pushrod. For every 1.00" of stroke travel in the master cylinder piston, the pedal will move 5.00".

    NOTE: It does not matter if the pushrod attachment point is above or below the pedal pivot point. The calculation of the pedal ratio is still the same formula of A divided by B.

    Visit Wilwood's Pedal & Accessories page here to find the right pedal or pedal assembly for your application.

     

    EXAMPLE:

    Measurement A = 10.00"

    Measurement B = 2.00"

    Pedal Ratio = A divided by B which in this case would be a 5:1 ratio.

     

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    pedal ratio

  • What is a proportioning valve?

    A proportioning valve is a pressure reduction device. It is typically installed in-line in the rear brake line to reduce braking efficiency and compensate for premature rear-wheel lockup; a result of incorrect front to rear brake bias. An adjustable proportioning valve permits incremental adjustments to fine tune brake bias. This ability to adjust front-rear brake bias is particularly important in race applications, as changing track conditions and vehicle dynamics usually require the brake bias be adjusted throughout the race.

  • Do I need a residual pressure valve?

    In-Line residual pressure valves retain a minimum brake line pressure to help eliminate excessive pedal travel in both disc and drum brake systems. The two-pound valve is used in disc brake applications where the master cylinder is mounted below the horizontal plane of the calipers and fluid drain back occurs from gravity and vibration, thereby causing excessive caliper piston retraction and longer brake pedal stroke. The minimal two pound residual pressure prevents fluid from flowing back without causing the brakes to drag. With drum brakes, a ten-pound RPV valve is sometimes used to compensate for return spring tension in the drums.

  • Engine

  • Chevy Short vs Long Water Pumps

    How To Identify Short Vs Long Water Pumps

    On classic Chevrolet V8 engines, there were two distinct water pumps; a short version and a long version. How do you tell the difference between a short and a long water pump?

    All models of Chevy V8 engines from 1955 through 1968 came equipped standard with a short water pump. From 1969 and newer engines with v-belt drives into the 1980s had long water pumps. With so many engine swaps, it’s possible your ’68 and older car has a long water pump. 

    Long vs Short Water Pump

    Measuring To Find Out Long Vs Short

    In order to figure out which one you have,  you can measure. From the base where the pump mounts to the block, to the mounting flange of the pump. This number for short water pumps should be 5-5/8″ for SBC applications and 5-3/4″ for BBC applications. The one exception here is that the 1971-1982 Corvette water pumps were short with a dimension of 5.795″. 

    Measuring again from the base to the mounting flange, long water pumps measure 7″ for SBC applications and 7-1/4″ for BBC applications. 

    Visually Figuring Out Long Vs Short

    If the water pump is installed on the engine, it’s fairly easy to visually tell if it’s short or long. On short water pumps, you most likely wouldn’t be able to stick a finger between the back of the water pump and the front of the timing chain cover. With a long water pump, you will be able to. In summary, if there’s about a 1″ gap then it’s long, if it’s right up against the timing chain cover then it’s short. 

    Short Water Pump

    Long Water Pump

    Long In A Short Application

    Can you run a long pump on a car that originally came with a short pump and vice versa? Yes, you can. However, you’ll run into space and pulley issues. For example on a ’66 Chevelle, if you have a BBC with a long pump in it, there isn’t room to run a clutch fan assembly. The water pump will fit behind the radiator but won’t have much room for any sort of cooling fans whether mechanical or electrical. 

    On the flip side if you run a short pump on a ’70 Chevelle you will have extra space which means a factory-style clutch fan won’t be properly spaced to a factory fan shroud. 

    From a performance standpoint, there’s zero difference in a short or long water pump. One doesn’t flow or cool any better. The difference would only be in the installation of a clutch fan or electrical fans and having adequate room. 

    Article Credit to: SS396.com Blog written by Tim King Nov 9, 2021

  • Transmissions

  • The Importance of New Clutch Break In

    The Importance of Breaking in a New Clutch

    The Importance of Breaking in a New Clutch

    You’ve finally invested in a high-performance upgrade for your car, and you’re itching to feel the difference on the open road. While the excitement is understandable, practicing patience by breaking in your new clutch will ensure its high performance for years to come. We’ll discuss the importance of breaking in a new clutch, how to do it successfully, and the potential consequences of ignoring this crucial step.

    The Break-In Process: Protecting Your Investment

    A new clutch requires a break-in period of around 500 miles so the components can settle and create a smooth mating surface. The process involves driving gently, avoiding hard launches, and shifting smoothly. These driving habits allow for the engagement and disengagement of the clutch with the flywheel.

    During this break-in period, avoid aggressive driving, hard accelerations, and high RPM shifts. Note that city driving conditions involving frequent clutch use are ideal for breaking in your new clutch.

    Risks of an Improper Break-In

    Ignoring the break-in process may result in an improperly-seated clutch. This can lead to a range of issues—shuddering, slippage, premature wear, and potential failure. An improperly broken-in clutch can also cause uneven wear on the friction surface, diminish clutch performance, and shorten its lifespan. Overlooking this step puts you at risk for inefficient use of your performance upgrade, reducing the value of your investment.

    Tips for a Successful Break-In

    At this point, you know the importance of breaking in a new clutch. Now, you can learn to take it easy on the road and keep these tips in mind:

    • Drive gently. Avoid hard launches, rapid acceleration, and downshifting to slow the car.
    • Shift smoothly. Engage each gear gently, ensuring complete disengagement before shifting to the next gear.
    • Keep RPMs low. Shift below the halfway mark on the tachometer during the break-in period.
    • Avoid aggressive driving. Refrain from racing, towing, or off-roading during the break-in process.

    Breaking in a new clutch is essential to car maintenance, particularly when investing in high-performance upgrades like a new clutch. By respecting the break-in period, you’ll protect your investment, have optimal clutch performance, and maximize its lifespan.

    If your car could benefit from a high-performance dual disc clutch, there’s no better place to find one than Clutch Masters Industries. We’re the premier supplier of high-performance clutches! Now that you know how to break in a new clutch, you can take full advantage of your performance enhancements while enjoying a satisfying driving experience.

  • How to Choose the Correct Size Transmission Cooler

    How to Choose the Correct Size Transmission Cooler

    There is no one-size-fits-all options when it comes to transmission coolers. Learn what to consider when choosing a transmission cooler and select the right option for your vehicle.

    Understanding Transmission Coolers

    The purpose of transmission coolers is to cool your vehicle’s transmission fluid so that your car won’t overheat. It also helps vehicle performance, as it supports an efficient car. The automatic transmission fluid shouldn’t exceed 225 degrees Fahrenheit for good performance. It should stay within a 175- to 225-degree range. When fluid goes above the maximum level, problems will occur.

    The fluid begins to cook and will harden if it reaches 260 degrees Fahrenheit. As the fluid gets hotter, internal and external leaks can occur. In extreme cases, the overcooked fluid can cause the transmission clutch plates to slip and eventually burn out. At that point, the transmission is unusable.

    Don’t risk the lifespan of your automatic transmission by failing to use a cooler. The cooler takes the hot fluid and lowers the temperature to prevent damage. It’s essential to select the right transmission cooler for your vehicle.

    Consider Your Vehicle Type

    The major thing to consider when choosing a transmission cooler is the type of vehicle you own. Ideally, you want a cooler than fits the make and model of your vehicle. Beyond this factor, think about your vehicle’s gross vehicle weight (GVW) rating. Each car has a cooler that aligns with the GVW. This rating system range from 10,000 to 30,000 pounds. And the more your vehicle weighs, the more transmission fluid it needs. Thus, you need the right transmission cooler to chill the amount of fluid. 

    The general rule of thumb is to choose a cooler that has an advertised GVW rating at least three times the weight (number) of your vehicle or the weight of the trailer you are towing. For example, if your vehicle weighs 5,000 lbs. the advertised GVW size of the cooler should be at least 15,000.

    Different Types of Coolers

    The three main types of transmission coolers are stacked plate, tube and fin, and plate and fin. Here is a closer look at the primary options.

    • Stacked plate – Utilizes a tube to carry the fluid inside the cooler. Stacked plates are the most popular coolers and the easiest to install. They’re also highly efficient!
       
    • Tube and fin – Created with aluminum and an S-shaped tube with fins. The fins absorb heat from the fluid, enabling airflow and cooling the fluid as it goes through the tubes. This is the least efficient option, but they work well in older cars.
       
    • Plate and fin – Parallel plates quickly cool fluids. They also have a large surface area, making it easier to effectively cool fluid in various vehicles. Given the good performance, this option is more expensive than the other coolers.

    Keep your vehicle cool with a transmission oil cooler from JBs Power Centre. Browse our selection to purchase the best option. If you have questions, please contact us.