Proworx Performance Engines - Tech Tips & Guides

Tech Tips & Guides

The following tech tips are provided to help when purchasing a PROWORX Performance engine and includes information on engine pre-lubrication, components and accessories, engine identifiers, and overall info to help with your installation and ongoing maintenance.

Make a selection from the list below to jump to that section:

EXHAUST MANIFOLD AND HEADER GASKETS

PROWORX Engines recommends the use of performance exhaust gaskets on all of our performance engines. DO NOT use the stock replacement type exhaust manifold gaskets. These are designed for original iron heads with iron exhaust manifold use only.

They will not seal when headers are used. This is especially true when the engine has aluminum heads with headers. The stock type gaskets will blow out very quickly and cause exhaust leaks. This can eventually cause engine failure that would not be covered under our warranty.

EXTREME IMPORTANCE FOR AFTERMARKET EFI SYSTEMS

This is extremely important when using aftermarket EFI systems. They rely heavily on an accurate air/fuel mixture reading that is constantly monitored by their wideband Oxygen, or O2, sensors.

An exhaust leak can cause a false “lean” condition by allowing unwanted oxygen into the exhaust stream. Once the O2 sensor detects this lean condition, it will adjust the air/fuel ratio to a richer mixture to compensate for the lean condition it is reading. Typically, the first signs of this problem will be fouled spark plugs, and/or a poorly running engine.

RECOMMENDED HEADER GASKETS

The first thing to remember is that you should always use header gaskets that match the shape of tube design on the header flanges. DO NOT use header gaskets to match the exhaust ports. Failure to do this will cause header leaks. Headers do not have to match the shape of the exhaust ports. On a street engine operating from idle to 6,000 rpm, you will not lose any horsepower.

PROWORX Engines recommends several different types of header gaskets.

Perforated steel core laminate type from Fel-Pro and Mr. Gasket.

Copper gaskets from Mr. Gasket.

Aluminum gaskets from Proform

Solid Graphite gaskets from Remflex

INSTALLATION TIPS

Prior to installing your headers, verify that they are not warped. There is not a header gasket that will cure a warped header flange. Be sure to thoroughly clean all old gasket material before installing headers with new gaskets. Most exhaust gasket failures are caused by header bolts loosening and/or the gasket relaxing after several heat cycles. To help prevent this, replace old header bolts with the locking style bolts, such as ones offered by Proform.

3/8” exhaust bolts are torqued to 25 ft lbs. 5/16” torque to 18 ft lbs. Use anti-seize on the bolt threads before installing the bolts. Recheck torque on all exhaust bolts after the first 50 miles, and again after 500 miles. Re-torque as needed.

LOCATING EXHAUST LEAKS AT THE CYLINDER HEADS

Often times exhaust leaks are small enough that they are often hard to hear when the engine is idling. They will also sound very much like a lifter ticking or a valve out of adjustment. Some can only be audible when the engine is under load.

While a mechanic’s stethoscope can be used to locate many engine noises, they do not work as well for finding an exhaust leak. Since exhaust leaks are just air leaks, locating the source of the leak can be accomplished very easily by using a 2 or 3-foot length of vacuum line as a stethoscope.

With one end held up near the ear, move the other end of the hose around the edge of the header flange, or exhaust manifold as this is where leaks are the most common. The minor exhaust leak will be easily heard and you will be able to locate the source of the leak within a square inch. If you cannot locate the source of the leak at the header flange, then check around the collector to exhaust pipe location.

Over time, headers can start to leak where the four primary pipes are welded into the collector. Once the source of the exhaust leak is found, follow the steps previously explained in order to remedy the problem.

CHOOSING A STARTER FOR YOUR PROWORX ENGINE

One of the most frequently asked questions we get from PROWORX customers is about starters. Do I need a mini starter? Or, a high torque starter? Or, will my old starter work? There are several factors to consider before buying a new starter for your new PROWORX engine.

First, let’s give you some information on what necessitates a performance starter over a stock replacement starter.

High compression engines:

Many race engines have compression ratios reaching 15:1, or more. This high amount of static compression puts much more pressure on the starter requiring more torque than a stock replacement starter is capable of producing. Nearly all of the PROWORX crate engines have compression of 10.3:1, or less. The 160 ft lbs of torque most factory starters are capable of producing are generally enough to turn engine sufficiently to get it started.

Timing:

Specifically, how much initial timing the engine has will make it harder for an engine to turn when starting. Many race engines have their ignition timing locked out at full advance in the 35-40 degree range. As such, many aftermarket ignition systems have timing retard switches built in that reduce the timing significantly during starting of the engine. PROWORX crate engines have recommended initial timing of 16 degrees or less which should not cause problems as well. Check your engine’s timing before purchasing a new starter.

Valve spring pressures:

Valve spring pressures also play a factor in the amount of torque necessary to turn the engine for starting. Engines built with solid roller camshafts need spring pressures that are at least 350 psi when the valve is closed to sometimes over 700 psi open. All that pressure requires much more torque exerted by the starter to turn the engine as well. PROWORX crate engines use hydraulic camshafts that need much less spring pressures for proper valve control. As such, the starter does not have to fight extreme spring pressures to turn the engine.

To decide whether or not to buy a new starter for your PROWORX crate engine, we have some questions that you should answer first:

  • Did the starter that was on your old engine work fine? If so, go ahead and try it on the new engine before purchasing a new one.
  • Whether you are using a factory starter, or a new, aftermarket one, having good quality battery cables is a must. Many hard starting problems are caused by battery cables that are too small, worn out, or getting too hot by their proximity to the heat of the exhaust. This is something that should always be checked first before buying a new starter. $20 for new battery cables is much cheaper than $150, and up, for a new starter. You want 2 gauge minimum on both the positive and negative battery cables. Also, the engine must have ground straps to the frame of the vehicle to prevent hard starting problems.
  • Do you have limited room for a big, factory type starter in your project vehicle? Space limitations will often dictate the necessity of a mini starter. Also, tubular exhaust headers can also make the use of factory starters impossible from either lack of space, or heat soaking the starter.

Ford and Chrysler's starters bolt directly to the transmission bell housing. Chevrolet starters bolt to the engine block itself. These Chevy starters have either a straight across the pattern or the staggered pattern. Many customers ask us what PROWORX crate engines are drilled for. All of our Chevy engines are drilled and tapped for both the straight and staggered starter bolt patterns.

Customers often ask us how to tell the difference between factory high torque starters and the standard versions. On Chevy engines, this is easily visible by looking at the starter itself. You may not need to remove the starter to see this.

GM factory starters have a ground strap that comes out of the main body of the starter and connects to the solenoid by a copper spacer. High torque starters will have about a 1 inch long copper spacer. Standard, non-high torque, starters will only have a ¼” spacer or less.

If you have any additional questions you need answered on starters for your PROWORX crate engine, please contact us at fpedro@jbspowercenter.com or call us at 780-489-6663

CHEVY STROKER DISPLACEMENT CONVERSIONS

PROWORX Performance Engines have been "stroked" to increase displacement and power. However, these engines use standard sized engine blocks for easy bolt-in installation.

Chevy 350 block has been stroked to 383 cubic inches.

Chevy 454 block has been stroked to 496 cubic inches.

ISSUE:

PROWORX Engines do not use familiar engine displacements (350 and 454 cubic inch) to specify Chevy applications. Instead, these engines are listed with their "stroked" displacement.

ACTION:

When selecting a Chevrolet engine application, use the following:

Original Chevy block application: 350 c.i.

PROWORX Engines Stroker displacement: 383 c.i.

Original Chevy block application: 454 c.i.

PROWORX Engines Stroker displacement: 496 c.i.

APPLICATION:

All PROWORX Chevy stroker crate engines

All PROWORX Engines Chevy short blocks

FORD STROKER DISPLACEMENT CONVERSIONS

PROWORX Performance Engines have been "stroked" to increase displacement and power. However, these engines use standard sized engine blocks for easy bolt-in installation.

Ford 302 block has been stroked to 331 cubic inches or 347 cubic inches.

Ford 351 Windsor block has been stroked to 393 cubic inches or 408 cubic inches.

ISSUE:

PROWORX Engines do not use familiar engine displacements (302 and 351 cubic inch) to specify Ford applications. Instead, these engines are listed with their "stroked" displacement.

ACTION:

When selecting a Ford engine application, use the following:

Original Ford block application: 302 c.i.

PROWORX Engines Stroker displacement: 331 c.i. or 347 c.i.

Original Ford block application: 351 c.i. Windsor

PROWORX Engines Stroker displacement: 393 c.i. or 408 c.i.

APPLICATION:

All PROWORX Ford stroker crate engines

All PROWORX Engines Ford short blocks

FORD STROKER PULLEY ALIGNMENT

PULLEY SPACERS MAY BE REQUIRED FOR FORD STROKER ENGINES

Issues with accessory drive pulley misalignment on Ford Stroker engines may require the installation of a pulley spacer on the harmonic balancer. Spacers are available from several commercial sources.

CATEGORY:

Installation, Accessory drives

ISSUE:

In some applications, accessory belts (alternator, power steering) may not align with the harmonic balancer pulley during assembly. This problem can be corrected by installing a pulley spacer on the harmonic balancer.

DIAGNOSIS:

Select the correct thickness by using a straight edge from the accessory pulley to the harmonic balancer, ensuring that the straight edge is parallel to the engine front cover. Measure the misalignment from the center of the harmonic balancer pulley groove.

ACTION:

Pulley spacers are available via aftermarket parts suppliers. See SCAT part numbers below.

Spacers are available in the following sizes:

  • Thickness: 0.350" Part# SCA8106
  • Thickness: 0.875" Part# SCA8108
  • Thickness: 0.950" Part# SCA8107

APPLICATIONS:

  • Ford 347 (all)
  • Ford 331 (all)
  • Ford 393 (all)
  • Ford 408 (all)

CRATE ENGINE INSTALLATION GUIDE

With proper installation, break-in and maintenance, your new high-performance PROWORX crate engine will give you years of trouble-free performance.